{"id":228,"date":"2018-06-13T12:14:40","date_gmt":"2018-06-13T16:14:40","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/?post_type=chapter&#038;p=228"},"modified":"2019-05-31T12:29:30","modified_gmt":"2019-05-31T16:29:30","slug":"a-glimpse-of-meiji-kimono-fashion","status":"publish","type":"chapter","link":"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/chapter\/a-glimpse-of-meiji-kimono-fashion\/","title":{"raw":"A Glimpse of Meiji Kimono Fashion | Ayako Yoshimura","rendered":"A Glimpse of Meiji Kimono Fashion | Ayako Yoshimura"},"content":{"raw":"<h1 style=\"text-align: center\">A Glimpse of Meiji Kimono Fashion<\/h1>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: center\"><strong>Ayako Yoshimura\u00a0<\/strong>|\u00a0University of Chicago<\/p>\r\n&nbsp;\r\n<p style=\"text-align: center\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/Yoshimura-Logo-e1528133041650.jpg\"><img src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/Yoshimura-Logo-e1528133041650.jpg\" alt=\"Detail of a kimono design print. The design depicts a tan kimono with a series of painted fans in the bottom corner.\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-269\" width=\"400\" height=\"327\" \/><\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/dx.doi.org\/10.14288\/1.0364367\"><\/a><\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n<hr \/>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\"><em>Moy\u014d no hon<\/em><span>\u00a0<\/span>\u6a21\u69d8\u4e4b\u672c<span>\u00a0<\/span>[Pattern book]\u2014part of the UBC Meiji at 150 collection\u2014contains twenty-one hand-painted designs for what we recognize today as<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>tomesode<\/em>s \u7559\u8896 [literally, \u201ctrimmed sleeves\u201d], the most formal type of Japanese-style clothing for women. The<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>tomesode\u00a0<\/em>is sewn in the shape of a<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>kosode<\/em><span>\u00a0<\/span>\u5c0f\u8896 [literally, \u201csmall sleeves\u201d], which is the most common article of Japanese-style clothing, and which is better known today as the kimono. (The Japanese word \u201c<em>kimono<\/em><span>\u00a0<\/span>\u7740\u7269\u201d originally meant merely \u201cclothing,\u201d but over the centuries it became\u2014both in Japan and abroad\u2014the word to denote a particular type of Japanese-style outfit involving a<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>kosode<\/em><span>\u00a0<\/span>and other accoutrements.)<\/p>\r\n<p class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: justify\">The book bears no publication information, suggesting that it is an<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>unicum<\/em><span>\u00a0<\/span>created for a small circle of designers and clients. Based on comparison with similar pattern books from the Meiji period \u660e\u6cbb\u6642\u4ee3 (1868\u20131912), the item can tentatively be dated to the turn of the century. A bookplate states that it once belonged to an as-yet-unidentified Imao Collection\u2014whose plate and seal (<a href=\"http:\/\/dbrec.nijl.ac.jp\/CSDB_45341\"><em>Imao\u00a0<\/em><em>z<\/em><em>\u014dsho<\/em>\u00a0\u4eca\u5c3e\u8535\u66f8<\/a>) are registered in the ex-libris database compiled by the<span>\u00a0<\/span><a href=\"http:\/\/base1.nijl.ac.jp\/~collectors_seal\/\">National Institute of Japanese Literature<\/a>, but without attribution<span>\u00a0<strong>[<\/strong><\/span><strong>Figure 1]<\/strong>. A sticker inside the back cover indicates that the book passed through the hands of the erstwhile Kyoto bookseller Yamamoto Bunkad\u014d \u5c71\u672c\u6587\u83ef\u5802<span>\u00a0<strong>[<\/strong><\/span><strong>Figure 2]<\/strong>.<\/p>\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\n[caption id=\"attachment_771\" align=\"alignleft\" width=\"200\"]<a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/09\/cover.jpg\"><img src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/09\/cover.jpg\" alt=\"The front cover of Moy\u014d no hon \u6a21\u69d8\u4e4b\u672c, or pattern book.\" class=\"wp-image-771\" width=\"200\" height=\"290\" \/><\/a> <strong>Figure 1.<\/strong> Front Cover Detail. Source: University of British Columbia Library, Rare Books and Special Collections (RBSC). Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 1.[\/caption]\r\n\r\n[caption id=\"attachment_770\" align=\"alignleft\" width=\"200\"]<a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/09\/backcover.jpg\"><img src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/09\/backcover.jpg\" alt=\"The back cover of Moy\u014d no hon \u6a21\u69d8\u4e4b\u672c, or Pattern book.\" class=\"wp-image-770\" width=\"200\" height=\"290\" \/><\/a> <strong>Figure 2.<\/strong> Back Cover Verso Detail. Source: UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 44.[\/caption]\r\n\r\n<div style=\"clear: both\">\r\n<h3 style=\"text-align: justify\"><strong>A Brief History of Pattern Books<\/strong><\/h3>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">Pattern books (called \u201c<em>hinagata bon<span>\u00a0<\/span><\/em>\u96db\u5f62\u672c [model books],\u201d \u201c<em>hiinakata<span>\u00a0<\/span><\/em>\u3072\u3044\u306a\u304b\u305f [models],\u201d \u201c<em>ish\u014d bon<span>\u00a0<\/span><\/em>\u610f\u5320\u672c [design books],\u201d \u201c<em>zuan ch\u014d<span>\u00a0<\/span><\/em>\u56f3\u6848\u5e16 [ideas-in-illustrations books],\u201d etc.) like this one functioned in the past as fashion magazines and catalogs. Browsing through such books, clothing designers could concoct ideas for new patterns, while prospective customers could imagine what sort of<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>kosode<\/em><span>\u00a0<\/span>they might commission.<\/p>\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<p class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: justify\">The Edo period \u6c5f\u6238\u6642\u4ee3 (1603\u20131868) was the heyday of pattern books. In the wake of Japan\u2019s civil war, the seventeenth century saw the beginning of a long era of political stability. With this came an improvement of the social and economic infrastructure, which allowed the merchant class to flourish. It was during this period that the general population became cognizant of the concept of \u201cfashion\u201d and its concomitant commodities. Fabric sellers partnered with publishers to issue pattern books for circulation among potential clients from the warrior and merchant classes, and artists and designers launched their own clothing brands. Around 1800 the production of pattern books dipped for unknown reasons. But the Meiji period saw a resurgence in production. Thanks to the importation of new technologies (particularly synthetic dyes and techniques for their use) from the West that revived the textile and printing industries, pattern books once again circulated as sources of fashion inspiration. Handcrafted catalogs such as<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>Moy\u014d no hon<\/em>, as well as the kimonos depicted within, were products of the newfound availability of such dyes.<\/p>\r\n<p class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: justify\">During the Meiji period, sericulture became one of the most profitable sectors of foreign trade for Japan. While much top-grade silk fabric was exported to Europe, there was an ample supply for domestic consumption by the wealthy. Silk kimonos were luxury items not available to women of all classes. Hence<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>Moy\u014d no hon<\/em><span>\u00a0<\/span>provides a glimpse into the ways in which wealthy women might have enjoyed kimono fashion in the Meiji era.<\/p>\r\n\r\n<h3 style=\"text-align: justify\"><strong><em>Tagasode<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">The style in which the\u00a0<em>tomesodes<\/em> in this book are rendered is called \u201c<em>tagasode<span>\u00a0<\/span><\/em>\u8ab0\u304c\u8896.\u201d \u201c<em>Tagasode<\/em>\u201d literally means \u201cWhose sleeve?\u201d; and the word carries a romantic connotation that implies a longing for the owner of the<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>kosode<\/em>. The concept of<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>t<\/em><em>agasode<\/em><span>\u00a0<\/span>is believed to have its origins in a literary motif from classical Japanese poetry. An anonymous poem in the Spring section of the famous poetry anthology<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>Kokin<span>\u00a0<\/span><\/em><em>w<\/em><em>akash\u016b<\/em><span>\u00a0<\/span>\u53e4\u4eca\u548c\u6b4c\u96c6 [A collection of poems from ancient and modern Japan] (ca. 920) reads: \u201c<em>Iro yori mo ka koso aware to omouyure tagasode fureshi yado no ume zomo<span>\u00a0<\/span><\/em>\u8272\u3088\u308a\u3082\u9999\u3053\u305d\u3042\u306f\u308c\u3068\u601d\u307b\u3086\u308c\u8ab0\u304c\u8896\u3075\u308c\u3057\u5bbf\u306e\u6885\u305e\u3082 [It is their fragrance rather than their color that affects me. I wonder whose sleeve might brush against these plums to carry away their scent].\u201d This evocative<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>topos<\/em><span>\u00a0<\/span>evolved into a popular aesthetic motif in the decorative arts, from screens to writing boxes (see examples at the<span>\u00a0<\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.metmuseum.org\/art\/collection\/search#!?q=tagasode)\">Metropolitan Museum of Art<\/a>). In such contexts<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>kosode<\/em>s are shown folded casually and hung on clothing stands. There even exist<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>kosode<\/em>s whose patterns show<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>kosode<\/em>s hung in this<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>tagasode<\/em><span>\u00a0<\/span>style.<\/p>\r\n<p class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: justify\">This way of hanging the<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>kosode<\/em><span>\u00a0<\/span>effectively reveals the lining, which is an important element of kimono fashion (see the vivid orange lining in<span>\u00a0<\/span><strong>Figures 3-5<\/strong>). The color of the lining needs to complement the color of the outer fabric, whether through strong affinity or sharp contrast. As such, the color of the lining says much about the kimono wearer\u2019s taste.<\/p>\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\n[caption id=\"attachment_256\" align=\"alignleft\" width=\"175\"]<a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p20.jpg\"><img src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p20.jpg\" alt=\"A kimono design with a brilliant orange inside lining and white poppies in the bottom corner.\" class=\"wp-image-256\" width=\"175\" height=\"256\" \/><\/a> <strong>Figure 3<\/strong>. Source: UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 20.[\/caption]\r\n\r\n[caption id=\"attachment_257\" align=\"alignleft\" width=\"175\"]<a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p22.jpg\"><img src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p22-206x300.jpg\" alt=\"An illustration of a gray kimono with wildflowers and a beachfront in the bottom left corner.\" class=\"wp-image-257\" width=\"175\" height=\"255\" \/><\/a> <strong>Figure 4<\/strong>. Source: UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 22.[\/caption]\r\n\r\n[caption id=\"attachment_258\" align=\"alignleft\" width=\"175\"]<a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p24.jpg\"><img src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p24.jpg\" alt=\"A design depicting a black kimono with a brilliant orange interior lining and an illustration of a forest under a night sky in the outside bottom corner.\" class=\"wp-image-258\" width=\"175\" height=\"254\" \/><\/a> <strong>Figure 5<\/strong>. Source: UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 24.[\/caption]\r\n\r\n<div style=\"clear: both\">\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">Kimono pattern books that use this\u00a0<em>tagasode<\/em> style to showcase patterns are not uncommon. For instance, the first volume of\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.lib.nara-wu.ac.jp\/nwugdb\/edo-j\/html\/j014\/\"><em>Onna shorei sh\u016b<\/em>\u00a0\u5973\u8af8\u793c\u96c6<\/a>\u00a0[An anthology of manners and etiquette for women] (1660)\u2014a guidebook for young women preparing for marriage\u2014shows\u00a0<em>kosode<\/em>s in the\u00a0<em>tagasode<\/em>\u00a0style to instruct readers in seasonally-appropriate patterns. A more recent example is\u00a0<em>Jidai kosode hinagata by\u014dbu<\/em>\u00a0\u6642\u4ee3\u5c0f\u8896\u96db\u5f62\u5c4f\u98a8\u00a0[A collection of<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>kosode<\/em>\u00a0patterns from the past] (compiled in 1939 by Nomura\u00a0Sh\u014djir\u014d \u91ce\u6751\u6b63\u6cbb\u90ce), a pictorial encyclopedia of<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>kosode<\/em>s from previous centuries.<\/p>\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<h3 style=\"text-align: justify\"><strong>Motifs<\/strong><\/h3>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">The<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>tagasode<\/em><span>\u00a0<\/span>style works well for the<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>tomesode<\/em>s in this pattern book, because<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>tomesode<\/em>s have patterns only below the torso; therefore, there is no need to show the sleeves or upper part. During the Meiji period the<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>tomesode<\/em><span>\u00a0<\/span>assumed its function as a formal garment for women to wear when attending celebratory events such as weddings, and it was thus common to feature auspicious symbols that contributed to the making of a congratulatory atmosphere. Most of these auspicious symbols (<em>kissh\u014d moy\u014d<\/em><span>\u00a0<\/span>\u5409\u7965\u6a21\u69d8), though fully embedded in Japanese culture, derive ultimately from China\u2014whence they were adopted during Japan\u2019s first-millennium steps toward nation-building.<\/p>\r\n\r\n<h5 class=\"no-indent\"><strong>Figure 6\u00a0\u2014\u00a0<em>Sh\u014d-chiku-bai<\/em>\u00a0\u677e\u7af9\u6885 motif<\/strong><\/h5>\r\n[caption id=\"attachment_247\" align=\"alignleft\" width=\"125\"]<a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p2.jpg\"><img src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p2.jpg\" alt=\"A depiction of a black kimono with a red-orange and white interior. In the lower outside corner is a staggered series of painted fans.\" class=\"wp-image-247\" width=\"125\" height=\"172\" \/><\/a> UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 2.[\/caption]\r\n\r\n[caption id=\"attachment_248\" align=\"alignleft\" width=\"125\"]<a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p4.jpg\"><img src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p4.jpg\" alt=\"A turquoise kimono design. The kimono also has a tan interior, and a pattern depicting gulls, trees, and sea currents in the lower exterior corner.\" class=\"wp-image-248\" width=\"125\" height=\"171\" \/><\/a> UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 4.[\/caption]\r\n\r\n[caption id=\"attachment_256\" align=\"alignleft\" width=\"125\"]<a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p20.jpg\"><img src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p20.jpg\" alt=\"A kimono design with a brilliant orange inside lining and white poppies in the bottom corner.\" class=\"wp-image-256\" width=\"125\" height=\"183\" \/><\/a> UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 20.[\/caption]\r\n\r\n[caption id=\"attachment_259\" align=\"alignleft\" width=\"125\"]<a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p26.jpg\"><img src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p26.jpg\" alt=\"A blue kimono design. The kimono has a tan interior, and a pattern depicting a pond scene (herons, grasses, trees, and water) in the lower exterior corner.\" class=\"wp-image-259\" width=\"125\" height=\"194\" \/><\/a> UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 26.[\/caption]\r\n\r\n<div style=\"clear: both\">\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\"><em>Sh\u014d-chiku-bai<\/em><span>\u00a0\u677e\u7af9\u6885 [pine-bamboo-plum]: Known as the three friends of winter in Chinese culture, pine, bamboo, and plum symbolize perseverance and vitality because all three survive the harsh winter. This is one of the most common auspicious symbols in Japan, and the book contains four patterns that feature it\u00a0<strong>[<\/strong><\/span><strong>Figure 6]<\/strong><span>.<\/span><\/p>\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<h5 class=\"no-indent\"><strong>Figure 7 \u2014\u00a0<em>Matsu<\/em>\u00a0\u677e Motif<\/strong><\/h5>\r\n[caption id=\"attachment_249\" align=\"alignleft\" width=\"125\"]<a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p6-1.jpg\"><img src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p6-1.jpg\" alt=\"A light green kimono design. The interior is red, and the lower outside pattern appears to depict snow-capped trees.\" class=\"wp-image-249\" width=\"125\" height=\"181\" \/><\/a> UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 6.[\/caption]\r\n\r\n[caption id=\"attachment_260\" align=\"alignleft\" width=\"125\"]<a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p28-1.jpg\"><img src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p28-1.jpg\" alt=\"A light green kimono design with a tan interior. The pattern appears to depict a landscape of evergreen trees and flowers observed from on high.\" class=\"wp-image-260\" width=\"125\" height=\"187\" \/><\/a> UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 28.[\/caption]\r\n\r\n[caption id=\"attachment_262\" align=\"alignleft\" width=\"125\"]<a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p32-1.jpg\"><img src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p32-1.jpg\" alt=\"A black kimono with red-orange and tan interior. The black background bleeds into the tangle of trees, red-and-brown foliage, water, and herons.\" class=\"wp-image-262\" width=\"125\" height=\"179\" \/><\/a> UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 32.[\/caption]\r\n\r\n[caption id=\"attachment_267\" align=\"alignleft\" width=\"125\"]<a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p42.jpg\"><img src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p42.jpg\" alt=\"A blue kimono with tan interior. The pattern in the lower outside corner depicts herons flying together among the matsu.\" class=\"wp-image-267\" width=\"125\" height=\"195\" \/><\/a> UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 42.[\/caption]\r\n\r\n<div style=\"clear: both\">\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\"><em>Matsu<\/em><span>\u00a0\u677e [pine tree]: As an evergreen tree, the pine symbolizes vitality and strength <strong>[<\/strong><\/span><strong>Figure 7]<\/strong><span>.<\/span><\/p>\r\n\r\n<div style=\"clear: both\">\r\n<h5 class=\"no-indent\"><strong>Figure 8 \u2014\u00a0<em>Tanch\u014d-zuru<\/em>\u00a0\u4e39\u9802\u9db4 Motif<\/strong><\/h5>\r\n[caption id=\"attachment_248\" align=\"alignleft\" width=\"125\"]<a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p4.jpg\"><img src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p4.jpg\" alt=\"A turquoise kimono design. The kimono also has a tan interior, and a pattern depicting gulls, trees, and sea currents in the lower exterior corner.\" class=\"wp-image-248\" width=\"125\" height=\"171\" \/><\/a> UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 4.[\/caption]\r\n\r\n[caption id=\"attachment_259\" align=\"alignleft\" width=\"125\"]<a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p26.jpg\"><img src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p26.jpg\" alt=\"A blue kimono design. The kimono has a tan interior, and a pattern depicting a pond scene (herons, grasses, trees, and water) in the lower exterior corner.\" class=\"wp-image-259\" width=\"125\" height=\"194\" \/><\/a> UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 26.[\/caption]\r\n\r\n[caption id=\"attachment_262\" align=\"alignleft\" width=\"125\"]<a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p32-1.jpg\"><img src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p32-1.jpg\" alt=\"A black kimono with red-orange and tan interior. The black background bleeds into the tangle of trees, red-and-brown foliage, water, and herons.\" class=\"wp-image-262\" width=\"125\" height=\"179\" \/><\/a> UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 32.[\/caption]\r\n\r\n[caption id=\"attachment_267\" align=\"alignleft\" width=\"125\"]<a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p42.jpg\"><img src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p42.jpg\" alt=\"A blue kimono with tan interior. The pattern in the lower outside corner depicts herons flying together among the matsu.\" class=\"wp-image-267\" width=\"125\" height=\"195\" \/><\/a> UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 42.[\/caption]\r\n\r\n<div style=\"clear: both\">\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\"><em>Tanch\u014d-zuru<\/em><span>\u00a0\u4e39\u9802\u9db4 [red-crowned crane]: This particular type of crane symbolizes longevity in Chinese culture (an ancient Chinese text called\u00a0<\/span><em>Huainanzi<\/em><span>\u00a0\u6dee\u5357\u5b50 [A collection of philosophies] records that they live a thousand years). The motif is often paired with other auspicious symbols\u00a0<strong>[<\/strong><\/span><strong>Figure 8]<\/strong><span>.<\/span><\/p>\r\n\r\n<h5 class=\"no-indent\"><strong>Figures 9 and 10 \u2014\u00a0<em>Botan ni ch\u014d\u00a0<\/em>\u7261\u4e39\u306b\u8776 and\u00a0<em>Nami chidori<\/em>\u00a0\u6ce2\u5343\u9ce5 Motifs<\/strong><\/h5>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n[caption id=\"attachment_253\" align=\"alignleft\" width=\"175\"]<a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p14-1.jpg\"><img src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p14-1.jpg\" alt=\"A pink kimono with reddish-pink interior. The pattern in the lower outside corner depicts butterflies traveling toward two peonies. A white fan lays next to one of the peonies.\" class=\"wp-image-253\" width=\"175\" height=\"239\" \/><\/a> <strong>Figure 9.<\/strong>\u00a0UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 14.[\/caption]\r\n\r\n[caption id=\"attachment_254\" align=\"alignleft\" width=\"175\"]<a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p16.jpg\"><img src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p16.jpg\" alt=\"A grayish kimono with red-orange and tan interior. The pattern in the lower outside corner depicts a wing of plovers outlining the shore of a pond.\" class=\"wp-image-254\" width=\"175\" height=\"248\" \/><\/a> <strong>Figure 10.1.<\/strong> UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 16.[\/caption]\r\n\r\n[caption id=\"attachment_262\" align=\"alignleft\" width=\"175\"]<a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p32-1.jpg\"><img src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p32-1.jpg\" alt=\"A black kimono with red-orange and tan interior. The black background bleeds into the tangle of trees, red-and-brown foliage, water, and herons.\" class=\"wp-image-262\" width=\"175\" height=\"251\" \/><\/a> <strong>Figure 10.2.<\/strong> UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 32.[\/caption]\r\n\r\n<div style=\"clear: both\">\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\"><em>Botan ni ch\u014d\u00a0<\/em>\u7261\u4e39\u306b\u8776 [peony and butterfly]: The peony is considered the king of flowers in China because of its rich beauty and medicinal value (the root of the plant has long been used to treat convulsions). The flower also symbolizes elegance and sophistication. The butterfly symbolizes evolution, resurrection, and longevity, thanks to the transformations that it undergoes in the course of its life cycle.<\/p>\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<p class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: justify\">One pattern in the book exemplifies feminine elegance with peonies, butterflies, and a folding fan (a high-class motif due to its associations with court life) on soft pink fabric\u00a0<strong>[<\/strong><strong>Figure 9]<\/strong>.<\/p>\r\n<p class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: justify\"><em>Nami chidori<\/em><span>\u00a0\u6ce2\u5343\u9ce5 [waves and plovers]: Birds (often plovers) soaring in formation over the waves symbolize a couple\u2019s bond to overcome obstacles in life. <\/span><\/p>\r\n<p class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: justify\"><span>In one pattern the beach is dotted with clams suggestive of the couple\u2019s inseparability (as each half of the bivalve has but one perfect match), making this\u00a0<\/span><em>tomesode<\/em><span>\u00a0especially suitable to be worn by a wedding guest\u00a0<strong>[<\/strong><\/span><strong>Fig. 10, left]<\/strong><span>. <\/span><span>Another incorporates the pine-bamboo-plum and the crane into its design, wishing for a marital union as hardy as the plants and as long-lived as the crane<strong>\u00a0[<\/strong><\/span><strong>Fig. 10, right]<\/strong><span>.<\/span><\/p>\r\n\r\n<h5 class=\"no-indent\"><strong>Figures 11 and 12\u00a0\u2014\u00a0<em>Hagi<\/em><span>\u00a0\u8429 and <em>Misu<\/em>\u00a0\u5fa1\u7c3e Motifs<\/span><\/strong><\/h5>\r\n[caption id=\"attachment_252\" align=\"alignleft\" width=\"275\"]<a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p12.jpg\"><img src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p12.jpg\" alt=\"A black kimono with tan interior. the pattern in the lower corner depicts hagi, or bush clover, along a lake or pond.\" class=\"wp-image-252\" width=\"275\" height=\"388\" \/><\/a> <strong>Figure 11<\/strong>. <em>Hagi<\/em> \u8429 Motif. Source: UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 12.[\/caption]\r\n\r\n[caption id=\"attachment_261\" align=\"alignleft\" width=\"275\"]<a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p30.jpg\"><img src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p30.jpg\" alt=\"A design of a yellow kimono with red-orange interior. The pattern in the lower corner depicts plums and chrysanthemums partially obscured by a haze.\" class=\"wp-image-261\" width=\"275\" height=\"385\" \/><\/a> <strong>Figure 12<\/strong>. <em>Misu<\/em> \u5fa1\u7c3e Motif. Source: UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 30.[\/caption]\r\n\r\n<div style=\"clear: both\">\r\n<p class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: justify\"><em>Hagi<\/em><span>\u00a0\u8429 [bush clover]: The\u00a0<\/span><em>hagi<\/em><span>\u00a0is one of the autumnal flowers that appear often in classical Japanese poetry. <\/span><\/p>\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<p class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: justify\"><span>The design in the book also includes the\u00a0<\/span><em>nami chidori<\/em><span>\u00a0motif, which suggests that this\u00a0<\/span><em>tomesode<\/em><span>\u00a0would be suitable for wearing to an autumn wedding\u00a0<strong>[<\/strong><\/span><strong>Figure 11]<\/strong><span>.<\/span><\/p>\r\n<p class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: justify\"><em>Misu<\/em><span>\u00a0\u5fa1\u7c3e [royal screen]:\u00a0<\/span>The\u00a0<em>misu<\/em>\u00a0is a type of suspended blind used\u00a0for the sake of propriety at the royal court (for instance, to sequester the noblewomen, and to shield the nobles from the gaze of commoners in their employ).<\/p>\r\n<p class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: justify\"><span><\/span><span>Due to its associations with court life, the motif as it appears on the formal garment exudes a sense of nobility and elegance. <\/span><span>The pattern with the\u00a0<\/span><em>misu<\/em><span>\u00a0motif in the book has a design with plums and chrysanthemums partially obscured by a haze\u2014an artistic gambit frequently used in paintings in pre-modern Japan<strong>\u00a0[<\/strong><\/span><strong>Figure 12]<\/strong><span>.<\/span><\/p>\r\n\r\n<h5 class=\"no-indent\"><strong>Figure 13\u00a0\u2014 Seasonal Plants and Flowers Motif<\/strong><\/h5>\r\n[caption id=\"attachment_251\" align=\"alignleft\" width=\"125\"]<a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p10-1.jpg\"><img src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p10-1.jpg\" alt=\"A design of a peach-colored kimono with pink and reddish interior. Japanese silver grass and chrysanthemums make up the pattern in the lower corner.\" class=\"wp-image-251\" width=\"125\" height=\"174\" \/><\/a> UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 10.[\/caption]\r\n\r\n[caption id=\"attachment_263\" align=\"alignleft\" width=\"125\"]<a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p34.jpg\"><img src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p34.jpg\" alt=\"A design of a blue kimono with tan interior. The pattern in the lower corner depicts chrysanthemums and maple leaves.\" class=\"wp-image-263\" width=\"125\" height=\"193\" \/><\/a> UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 34.[\/caption]\r\n\r\n[caption id=\"attachment_264\" align=\"alignleft\" width=\"125\"]<a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p36.jpg\"><img src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p36.jpg\" alt=\"A purple kimono with red-orange interior. The interior color matches some of the maple leaves depicted in the pattern in the lower corner.\" class=\"wp-image-264\" width=\"125\" height=\"191\" \/><\/a> UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 36.[\/caption]\r\n\r\n[caption id=\"attachment_255\" align=\"alignleft\" width=\"125\"]<a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p18-1.jpg\"><img src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p18-1.jpg\" alt=\"A gray kimono with tan interior. The lower corner pattern depicts colored maple leaves and scattered cherry blossom petals with birds in flight.\" class=\"wp-image-255\" width=\"125\" height=\"174\" \/><\/a> UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 18.[\/caption]\r\n\r\n<div style=\"clear: both\">\r\n<p class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: justify\"><span>Seasonal plants and flowers: An assemblage of plants and flowers can evoke a particular season. For example, the book includes a design with an autumn theme featuring Japanese silver grass and chrysanthemums (Page 10). Chrysanthemums and maple leaves are both evocative of autumn (Page 34; Page 36). Other designs fit multiple seasons. The combination of colored maple leaves and scattered cherry blossom petals with birds might be appropriate for attendees of autumn or spring weddings (Page 18). <\/span><\/p>\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\n[caption id=\"attachment_250\" align=\"alignright\" width=\"209\"]<a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p8.jpg\"><img src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p8-209x300.jpg\" alt=\"This design depicts a beige kimono with a series of painted fans in the bottom corner.\" class=\"wp-image-250 size-medium\" width=\"209\" height=\"300\" \/><\/a> <strong>Figure 14<\/strong>. Several motifs with Mt. Fuji. Source: UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 8.[\/caption]\r\n<p class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: justify\"><span>The combination of flowers from early summer (sweet flag) and autumn (bellflower, bush clover, Japanese silver grass, chrysanthemums) makes this design suitable for spring or autumn (Page 22). The sense and sensibility of seasonal motifs has always been very important in Japanese culture. It is considered fashionable to wear a kimono with botanical motifs marking the coming season, while it is seen as uncouth to wear a kimono with seasonal patterns after that season has passed.<\/span><\/p>\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<p class=\"no-indent\">The most inclusive pattern in the book is the one with many of the aforementioned motifs alongside Mount Fuji\u00a0<strong>[<\/strong><strong>Figure 14]<\/strong><span>.<\/span><\/p>\r\n<p class=\"no-indent\"><strong>Taste<span>\u00a0<\/span><\/strong><strong>t<\/strong><strong>hrough Design<\/strong><\/p>\r\n<p class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: justify\">Clothes communicate personality. Discussion of kimono fashion often centers on casual kimonos, which ostensibly afford more freedom of expression. However, even within the limited realm of<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>tomesode<\/em>s (where formal dress codes may restrict one\u2019s style), there is room for personal choice. All<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>tomesode<\/em>s are generically alike (in their basic shape, their modest pattern placement); therefore, it is through the selection of colors and symbols that a woman reveals her taste. For example, this book includes several patterns with the same auspicious motifs such as pines and cranes, but arrayed in different designs.<\/p>\r\n<p class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: justify\">Likewise, contained in the book are several different patterns with similar seasonal botanical motifs. The variety of patterns attests to the varied tastes of prospective wearers. Auspicious motifs would communicate a wearer\u2019s good wishes to onlookers, and seasonally-appropriate motifs would please them as well. Yet at the same time the ways in which the motifs are arranged in the design bespeak the wearer\u2019s taste in fashion. A kimono wearer would enjoy going through this kind of book, pondering which motifs might suit her style and how she might arrange them to create a look that would best represent her personhood.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n<hr \/>\r\n\r\n<h5 class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: center\"><strong>Further Reading<\/strong><\/h5>\r\n<p class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: justify\">Boettcher, Cheryl. 1987. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ideals.illinois.edu\/handle\/2142\/3946\">\u201cThe Kimono Imagined.\u201d<\/a><span>\u00a0<\/span><em>Occasional Papers<\/em><span>\u00a0<\/span>(University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign. Graduate School of Library Science), no. 180.<\/p>\r\n<p class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: justify\">Maruyama, Nobuhiko \u4e38\u5c71\u4f38\u5f66. 2008.<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>Edo m\u014ddo no tanj\u014d<\/em>:<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>mon\u2019y\u014d no ry\u016bk\u014d to sut\u0101 eshi<\/em><span>\u00a0<\/span>\u6c5f\u6238\u30e2\u30fc\u30c9\u306e\u8a95\u751f: \u6587\u69d8\u306e\u6d41\u884c\u3068\u30b9\u30bf\u30fc\u7d75\u5e2b [The birth of Edo fashion: pattern trends and celebrity designers]. To\u0304kyo\u0304: Kadokawa Gakugei Shuppan.<\/p>\r\n<p class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: justify\">Mostow, Joshua S. 1996.<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>Pictures of the Heart:<span>\u00a0<\/span><\/em><em>T<\/em><em>he<span>\u00a0<\/span><\/em>Hyakunin Isshu<em><span>\u00a0<\/span>in Word and Image<\/em>. Honolulu: University of Hawai\u02bbi Press.<\/p>\r\n<p class=\"no-indent\">Nagasaki, Iwao \u9577\u5d0e\u5dcc. 2002. <em>Kosode kara kimono e<\/em> \u5c0f\u8896\u304b\u3089\u304d\u3082\u306e\u3078 [From kosode to kimono]. <em>Nihon no bijutsu<\/em> \u65e5\u672c\u306e\u7f8e\u8853 [The art of Japan] no. 435.<\/p>\r\n<p class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: justify\">Siffert, Betty Y. 1992. \u201c<em>Hinagata Bon<\/em>: The Art Institute of Chicago Collection of Kimono Pattern Books.\u201d<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>Art Institute of Chicago Museum Studies<\/em>, vol. 18, no. 1: 86\u201394, 103.\u00a0 (Since the publication of this article, most of the pattern books discussed within have been transferred from the Institute\u2019s Ryerson and Burnham Libraries to the Asian Department of the adjacent museum.)<\/p>\r\n<p class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: justify\">Yokoya, Kenichir\u014d. 2008. \u201cKimono Zuanch\u014d in Kyoto.\u201d Translated by Maya Hara. In<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>Zuanch<\/em><em>\u014d in Kyoto: Textile Design Books for the Kimono Trade<\/em>, edited by Becky Fischbach, 5\u201332. Stanford: Stanford University Libraries.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n<hr \/>\r\n\r\n<h3 style=\"text-align: center\"><strong>Acknowledgements<\/strong><\/h3>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">The author would like to thank Mizuho Kamo and Natsuko Takasu for their assistance in dating the item and in clarifying certain historical aspects of kimono pattern books.<\/p>\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>","rendered":"<h1 style=\"text-align: center\">A Glimpse of Meiji Kimono Fashion<\/h1>\n<p style=\"text-align: center\"><strong>Ayako Yoshimura\u00a0<\/strong>|\u00a0University of Chicago<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/Yoshimura-Logo-e1528133041650.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/Yoshimura-Logo-e1528133041650.jpg\" alt=\"Detail of a kimono design print. The design depicts a tan kimono with a series of painted fans in the bottom corner.\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-269\" width=\"400\" height=\"327\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/Yoshimura-Logo-e1528133041650.jpg 3167w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/Yoshimura-Logo-e1528133041650-300x245.jpg 300w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/Yoshimura-Logo-e1528133041650-768x628.jpg 768w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/Yoshimura-Logo-e1528133041650-1024x837.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/Yoshimura-Logo-e1528133041650-65x53.jpg 65w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/Yoshimura-Logo-e1528133041650-225x184.jpg 225w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/Yoshimura-Logo-e1528133041650-350x286.jpg 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\" \/><\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/dx.doi.org\/10.14288\/1.0364367\"><\/a><\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\"><em>Moy\u014d no hon<\/em><span>\u00a0<\/span>\u6a21\u69d8\u4e4b\u672c<span>\u00a0<\/span>[Pattern book]\u2014part of the UBC Meiji at 150 collection\u2014contains twenty-one hand-painted designs for what we recognize today as<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>tomesode<\/em>s \u7559\u8896 [literally, \u201ctrimmed sleeves\u201d], the most formal type of Japanese-style clothing for women. The<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>tomesode\u00a0<\/em>is sewn in the shape of a<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>kosode<\/em><span>\u00a0<\/span>\u5c0f\u8896 [literally, \u201csmall sleeves\u201d], which is the most common article of Japanese-style clothing, and which is better known today as the kimono. (The Japanese word \u201c<em>kimono<\/em><span>\u00a0<\/span>\u7740\u7269\u201d originally meant merely \u201cclothing,\u201d but over the centuries it became\u2014both in Japan and abroad\u2014the word to denote a particular type of Japanese-style outfit involving a<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>kosode<\/em><span>\u00a0<\/span>and other accoutrements.)<\/p>\n<p class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: justify\">The book bears no publication information, suggesting that it is an<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>unicum<\/em><span>\u00a0<\/span>created for a small circle of designers and clients. Based on comparison with similar pattern books from the Meiji period \u660e\u6cbb\u6642\u4ee3 (1868\u20131912), the item can tentatively be dated to the turn of the century. A bookplate states that it once belonged to an as-yet-unidentified Imao Collection\u2014whose plate and seal (<a href=\"http:\/\/dbrec.nijl.ac.jp\/CSDB_45341\"><em>Imao\u00a0<\/em><em>z<\/em><em>\u014dsho<\/em>\u00a0\u4eca\u5c3e\u8535\u66f8<\/a>) are registered in the ex-libris database compiled by the<span>\u00a0<\/span><a href=\"http:\/\/base1.nijl.ac.jp\/~collectors_seal\/\">National Institute of Japanese Literature<\/a>, but without attribution<span>\u00a0<strong>[<\/strong><\/span><strong>Figure 1]<\/strong>. A sticker inside the back cover indicates that the book passed through the hands of the erstwhile Kyoto bookseller Yamamoto Bunkad\u014d \u5c71\u672c\u6587\u83ef\u5802<span>\u00a0<strong>[<\/strong><\/span><strong>Figure 2]<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_771\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-771\" style=\"width: 200px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/09\/cover.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/09\/cover.jpg\" alt=\"The front cover of Moy\u014d no hon \u6a21\u69d8\u4e4b\u672c, or pattern book.\" class=\"wp-image-771\" width=\"200\" height=\"290\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/09\/cover.jpg 1726w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/09\/cover-207x300.jpg 207w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/09\/cover-768x1112.jpg 768w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/09\/cover-707x1024.jpg 707w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/09\/cover-65x94.jpg 65w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/09\/cover-225x326.jpg 225w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/09\/cover-350x507.jpg 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 200px) 100vw, 200px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-771\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><strong>Figure 1.<\/strong> Front Cover Detail. Source: University of British Columbia Library, Rare Books and Special Collections (RBSC). Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 1.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_770\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-770\" style=\"width: 200px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/09\/backcover.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/09\/backcover.jpg\" alt=\"The back cover of Moy\u014d no hon \u6a21\u69d8\u4e4b\u672c, or Pattern book.\" class=\"wp-image-770\" width=\"200\" height=\"290\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/09\/backcover.jpg 1725w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/09\/backcover-207x300.jpg 207w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/09\/backcover-768x1113.jpg 768w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/09\/backcover-707x1024.jpg 707w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/09\/backcover-65x94.jpg 65w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/09\/backcover-225x326.jpg 225w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/09\/backcover-350x507.jpg 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 200px) 100vw, 200px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-770\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><strong>Figure 2.<\/strong> Back Cover Verso Detail. Source: UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 44.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div style=\"clear: both\">\n<h3 style=\"text-align: justify\"><strong>A Brief History of Pattern Books<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">Pattern books (called \u201c<em>hinagata bon<span>\u00a0<\/span><\/em>\u96db\u5f62\u672c [model books],\u201d \u201c<em>hiinakata<span>\u00a0<\/span><\/em>\u3072\u3044\u306a\u304b\u305f [models],\u201d \u201c<em>ish\u014d bon<span>\u00a0<\/span><\/em>\u610f\u5320\u672c [design books],\u201d \u201c<em>zuan ch\u014d<span>\u00a0<\/span><\/em>\u56f3\u6848\u5e16 [ideas-in-illustrations books],\u201d etc.) like this one functioned in the past as fashion magazines and catalogs. Browsing through such books, clothing designers could concoct ideas for new patterns, while prospective customers could imagine what sort of<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>kosode<\/em><span>\u00a0<\/span>they might commission.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<p class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: justify\">The Edo period \u6c5f\u6238\u6642\u4ee3 (1603\u20131868) was the heyday of pattern books. In the wake of Japan\u2019s civil war, the seventeenth century saw the beginning of a long era of political stability. With this came an improvement of the social and economic infrastructure, which allowed the merchant class to flourish. It was during this period that the general population became cognizant of the concept of \u201cfashion\u201d and its concomitant commodities. Fabric sellers partnered with publishers to issue pattern books for circulation among potential clients from the warrior and merchant classes, and artists and designers launched their own clothing brands. Around 1800 the production of pattern books dipped for unknown reasons. But the Meiji period saw a resurgence in production. Thanks to the importation of new technologies (particularly synthetic dyes and techniques for their use) from the West that revived the textile and printing industries, pattern books once again circulated as sources of fashion inspiration. Handcrafted catalogs such as<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>Moy\u014d no hon<\/em>, as well as the kimonos depicted within, were products of the newfound availability of such dyes.<\/p>\n<p class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: justify\">During the Meiji period, sericulture became one of the most profitable sectors of foreign trade for Japan. While much top-grade silk fabric was exported to Europe, there was an ample supply for domestic consumption by the wealthy. Silk kimonos were luxury items not available to women of all classes. Hence<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>Moy\u014d no hon<\/em><span>\u00a0<\/span>provides a glimpse into the ways in which wealthy women might have enjoyed kimono fashion in the Meiji era.<\/p>\n<h3 style=\"text-align: justify\"><strong><em>Tagasode<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">The style in which the\u00a0<em>tomesodes<\/em> in this book are rendered is called \u201c<em>tagasode<span>\u00a0<\/span><\/em>\u8ab0\u304c\u8896.\u201d \u201c<em>Tagasode<\/em>\u201d literally means \u201cWhose sleeve?\u201d; and the word carries a romantic connotation that implies a longing for the owner of the<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>kosode<\/em>. The concept of<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>t<\/em><em>agasode<\/em><span>\u00a0<\/span>is believed to have its origins in a literary motif from classical Japanese poetry. An anonymous poem in the Spring section of the famous poetry anthology<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>Kokin<span>\u00a0<\/span><\/em><em>w<\/em><em>akash\u016b<\/em><span>\u00a0<\/span>\u53e4\u4eca\u548c\u6b4c\u96c6 [A collection of poems from ancient and modern Japan] (ca. 920) reads: \u201c<em>Iro yori mo ka koso aware to omouyure tagasode fureshi yado no ume zomo<span>\u00a0<\/span><\/em>\u8272\u3088\u308a\u3082\u9999\u3053\u305d\u3042\u306f\u308c\u3068\u601d\u307b\u3086\u308c\u8ab0\u304c\u8896\u3075\u308c\u3057\u5bbf\u306e\u6885\u305e\u3082 [It is their fragrance rather than their color that affects me. I wonder whose sleeve might brush against these plums to carry away their scent].\u201d This evocative<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>topos<\/em><span>\u00a0<\/span>evolved into a popular aesthetic motif in the decorative arts, from screens to writing boxes (see examples at the<span>\u00a0<\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.metmuseum.org\/art\/collection\/search#!?q=tagasode)\">Metropolitan Museum of Art<\/a>). In such contexts<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>kosode<\/em>s are shown folded casually and hung on clothing stands. There even exist<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>kosode<\/em>s whose patterns show<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>kosode<\/em>s hung in this<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>tagasode<\/em><span>\u00a0<\/span>style.<\/p>\n<p class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: justify\">This way of hanging the<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>kosode<\/em><span>\u00a0<\/span>effectively reveals the lining, which is an important element of kimono fashion (see the vivid orange lining in<span>\u00a0<\/span><strong>Figures 3-5<\/strong>). The color of the lining needs to complement the color of the outer fabric, whether through strong affinity or sharp contrast. As such, the color of the lining says much about the kimono wearer\u2019s taste.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_256\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-256\" style=\"width: 175px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p20.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p20.jpg\" alt=\"A kimono design with a brilliant orange inside lining and white poppies in the bottom corner.\" class=\"wp-image-256\" width=\"175\" height=\"256\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p20.jpg 2761w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p20-205x300.jpg 205w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p20-768x1122.jpg 768w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p20-701x1024.jpg 701w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p20-65x95.jpg 65w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p20-225x329.jpg 225w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p20-350x511.jpg 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 175px) 100vw, 175px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-256\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><strong>Figure 3<\/strong>. Source: UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 20.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_257\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-257\" style=\"width: 175px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p22.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p22-206x300.jpg\" alt=\"An illustration of a gray kimono with wildflowers and a beachfront in the bottom left corner.\" class=\"wp-image-257\" width=\"175\" height=\"255\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p22-206x300.jpg 206w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p22-768x1117.jpg 768w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p22-704x1024.jpg 704w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p22-65x95.jpg 65w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p22-225x327.jpg 225w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p22-350x509.jpg 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 175px) 100vw, 175px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-257\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><strong>Figure 4<\/strong>. Source: UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 22.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_258\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-258\" style=\"width: 175px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p24.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p24.jpg\" alt=\"A design depicting a black kimono with a brilliant orange interior lining and an illustration of a forest under a night sky in the outside bottom corner.\" class=\"wp-image-258\" width=\"175\" height=\"254\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p24.jpg 2681w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p24-207x300.jpg 207w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p24-768x1114.jpg 768w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p24-706x1024.jpg 706w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p24-65x94.jpg 65w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p24-225x326.jpg 225w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p24-350x508.jpg 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 175px) 100vw, 175px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-258\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><strong>Figure 5<\/strong>. Source: UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 24.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div style=\"clear: both\">\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">Kimono pattern books that use this\u00a0<em>tagasode<\/em> style to showcase patterns are not uncommon. For instance, the first volume of\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.lib.nara-wu.ac.jp\/nwugdb\/edo-j\/html\/j014\/\"><em>Onna shorei sh\u016b<\/em>\u00a0\u5973\u8af8\u793c\u96c6<\/a>\u00a0[An anthology of manners and etiquette for women] (1660)\u2014a guidebook for young women preparing for marriage\u2014shows\u00a0<em>kosode<\/em>s in the\u00a0<em>tagasode<\/em>\u00a0style to instruct readers in seasonally-appropriate patterns. A more recent example is\u00a0<em>Jidai kosode hinagata by\u014dbu<\/em>\u00a0\u6642\u4ee3\u5c0f\u8896\u96db\u5f62\u5c4f\u98a8\u00a0[A collection of<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>kosode<\/em>\u00a0patterns from the past] (compiled in 1939 by Nomura\u00a0Sh\u014djir\u014d \u91ce\u6751\u6b63\u6cbb\u90ce), a pictorial encyclopedia of<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>kosode<\/em>s from previous centuries.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<h3 style=\"text-align: justify\"><strong>Motifs<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">The<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>tagasode<\/em><span>\u00a0<\/span>style works well for the<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>tomesode<\/em>s in this pattern book, because<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>tomesode<\/em>s have patterns only below the torso; therefore, there is no need to show the sleeves or upper part. During the Meiji period the<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>tomesode<\/em><span>\u00a0<\/span>assumed its function as a formal garment for women to wear when attending celebratory events such as weddings, and it was thus common to feature auspicious symbols that contributed to the making of a congratulatory atmosphere. Most of these auspicious symbols (<em>kissh\u014d moy\u014d<\/em><span>\u00a0<\/span>\u5409\u7965\u6a21\u69d8), though fully embedded in Japanese culture, derive ultimately from China\u2014whence they were adopted during Japan\u2019s first-millennium steps toward nation-building.<\/p>\n<h5 class=\"no-indent\"><strong>Figure 6\u00a0\u2014\u00a0<em>Sh\u014d-chiku-bai<\/em>\u00a0\u677e\u7af9\u6885 motif<\/strong><\/h5>\n<figure id=\"attachment_247\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-247\" style=\"width: 125px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p2.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p2.jpg\" alt=\"A depiction of a black kimono with a red-orange and white interior. In the lower outside corner is a staggered series of painted fans.\" class=\"wp-image-247\" width=\"125\" height=\"172\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p2.jpg 2933w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p2-218x300.jpg 218w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p2-768x1056.jpg 768w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p2-745x1024.jpg 745w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p2-65x89.jpg 65w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p2-225x309.jpg 225w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p2-350x481.jpg 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 125px) 100vw, 125px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-247\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 2.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_248\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-248\" style=\"width: 125px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p4.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p4.jpg\" alt=\"A turquoise kimono design. The kimono also has a tan interior, and a pattern depicting gulls, trees, and sea currents in the lower exterior corner.\" class=\"wp-image-248\" width=\"125\" height=\"171\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p4.jpg 2933w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p4-219x300.jpg 219w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p4-768x1050.jpg 768w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p4-749x1024.jpg 749w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p4-65x89.jpg 65w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p4-225x308.jpg 225w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p4-350x479.jpg 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 125px) 100vw, 125px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-248\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 4.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_256\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-256\" style=\"width: 125px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p20.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p20.jpg\" alt=\"A kimono design with a brilliant orange inside lining and white poppies in the bottom corner.\" class=\"wp-image-256\" width=\"125\" height=\"183\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p20.jpg 2761w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p20-205x300.jpg 205w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p20-768x1122.jpg 768w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p20-701x1024.jpg 701w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p20-65x95.jpg 65w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p20-225x329.jpg 225w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p20-350x511.jpg 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 125px) 100vw, 125px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-256\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 20.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_259\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-259\" style=\"width: 125px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p26.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p26.jpg\" alt=\"A blue kimono design. The kimono has a tan interior, and a pattern depicting a pond scene (herons, grasses, trees, and water) in the lower exterior corner.\" class=\"wp-image-259\" width=\"125\" height=\"194\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p26.jpg 2530w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p26-194x300.jpg 194w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p26-768x1190.jpg 768w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p26-661x1024.jpg 661w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p26-65x101.jpg 65w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p26-225x349.jpg 225w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p26-350x542.jpg 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 125px) 100vw, 125px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-259\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 26.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div style=\"clear: both\">\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\"><em>Sh\u014d-chiku-bai<\/em><span>\u00a0\u677e\u7af9\u6885 [pine-bamboo-plum]: Known as the three friends of winter in Chinese culture, pine, bamboo, and plum symbolize perseverance and vitality because all three survive the harsh winter. This is one of the most common auspicious symbols in Japan, and the book contains four patterns that feature it\u00a0<strong>[<\/strong><\/span><strong>Figure 6]<\/strong><span>.<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<h5 class=\"no-indent\"><strong>Figure 7 \u2014\u00a0<em>Matsu<\/em>\u00a0\u677e Motif<\/strong><\/h5>\n<figure id=\"attachment_249\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-249\" style=\"width: 125px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p6-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p6-1.jpg\" alt=\"A light green kimono design. The interior is red, and the lower outside pattern appears to depict snow-capped trees.\" class=\"wp-image-249\" width=\"125\" height=\"181\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p6-1.jpg 2772w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p6-1-207x300.jpg 207w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p6-1-768x1111.jpg 768w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p6-1-708x1024.jpg 708w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p6-1-65x94.jpg 65w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p6-1-225x326.jpg 225w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p6-1-350x506.jpg 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 125px) 100vw, 125px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-249\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 6.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_260\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-260\" style=\"width: 125px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p28-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p28-1.jpg\" alt=\"A light green kimono design with a tan interior. The pattern appears to depict a landscape of evergreen trees and flowers observed from on high.\" class=\"wp-image-260\" width=\"125\" height=\"187\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p28-1.jpg 2540w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p28-1-201x300.jpg 201w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p28-1-768x1149.jpg 768w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p28-1-684x1024.jpg 684w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p28-1-65x97.jpg 65w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p28-1-225x337.jpg 225w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p28-1-350x524.jpg 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 125px) 100vw, 125px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-260\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 28.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_262\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-262\" style=\"width: 125px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p32-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p32-1.jpg\" alt=\"A black kimono with red-orange and tan interior. The black background bleeds into the tangle of trees, red-and-brown foliage, water, and herons.\" class=\"wp-image-262\" width=\"125\" height=\"179\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p32-1.jpg 2802w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p32-1-210x300.jpg 210w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p32-1-768x1099.jpg 768w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p32-1-715x1024.jpg 715w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p32-1-65x93.jpg 65w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p32-1-225x322.jpg 225w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p32-1-350x501.jpg 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 125px) 100vw, 125px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-262\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 32.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_267\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-267\" style=\"width: 125px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p42.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p42.jpg\" alt=\"A blue kimono with tan interior. The pattern in the lower outside corner depicts herons flying together among the matsu.\" class=\"wp-image-267\" width=\"125\" height=\"195\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p42.jpg 2419w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p42-193x300.jpg 193w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p42-768x1197.jpg 768w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p42-657x1024.jpg 657w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p42-65x101.jpg 65w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p42-225x351.jpg 225w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p42-350x545.jpg 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 125px) 100vw, 125px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-267\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 42.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div style=\"clear: both\">\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\"><em>Matsu<\/em><span>\u00a0\u677e [pine tree]: As an evergreen tree, the pine symbolizes vitality and strength <strong>[<\/strong><\/span><strong>Figure 7]<\/strong><span>.<\/span><\/p>\n<div style=\"clear: both\">\n<h5 class=\"no-indent\"><strong>Figure 8 \u2014\u00a0<em>Tanch\u014d-zuru<\/em>\u00a0\u4e39\u9802\u9db4 Motif<\/strong><\/h5>\n<figure id=\"attachment_248\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-248\" style=\"width: 125px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p4.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p4.jpg\" alt=\"A turquoise kimono design. The kimono also has a tan interior, and a pattern depicting gulls, trees, and sea currents in the lower exterior corner.\" class=\"wp-image-248\" width=\"125\" height=\"171\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p4.jpg 2933w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p4-219x300.jpg 219w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p4-768x1050.jpg 768w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p4-749x1024.jpg 749w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p4-65x89.jpg 65w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p4-225x308.jpg 225w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p4-350x479.jpg 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 125px) 100vw, 125px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-248\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 4.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_259\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-259\" style=\"width: 125px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p26.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p26.jpg\" alt=\"A blue kimono design. The kimono has a tan interior, and a pattern depicting a pond scene (herons, grasses, trees, and water) in the lower exterior corner.\" class=\"wp-image-259\" width=\"125\" height=\"194\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p26.jpg 2530w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p26-194x300.jpg 194w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p26-768x1190.jpg 768w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p26-661x1024.jpg 661w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p26-65x101.jpg 65w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p26-225x349.jpg 225w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p26-350x542.jpg 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 125px) 100vw, 125px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-259\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 26.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_262\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-262\" style=\"width: 125px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p32-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p32-1.jpg\" alt=\"A black kimono with red-orange and tan interior. The black background bleeds into the tangle of trees, red-and-brown foliage, water, and herons.\" class=\"wp-image-262\" width=\"125\" height=\"179\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p32-1.jpg 2802w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p32-1-210x300.jpg 210w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p32-1-768x1099.jpg 768w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p32-1-715x1024.jpg 715w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p32-1-65x93.jpg 65w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p32-1-225x322.jpg 225w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p32-1-350x501.jpg 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 125px) 100vw, 125px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-262\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 32.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_267\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-267\" style=\"width: 125px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p42.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p42.jpg\" alt=\"A blue kimono with tan interior. The pattern in the lower outside corner depicts herons flying together among the matsu.\" class=\"wp-image-267\" width=\"125\" height=\"195\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p42.jpg 2419w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p42-193x300.jpg 193w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p42-768x1197.jpg 768w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p42-657x1024.jpg 657w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p42-65x101.jpg 65w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p42-225x351.jpg 225w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p42-350x545.jpg 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 125px) 100vw, 125px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-267\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 42.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div style=\"clear: both\">\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\"><em>Tanch\u014d-zuru<\/em><span>\u00a0\u4e39\u9802\u9db4 [red-crowned crane]: This particular type of crane symbolizes longevity in Chinese culture (an ancient Chinese text called\u00a0<\/span><em>Huainanzi<\/em><span>\u00a0\u6dee\u5357\u5b50 [A collection of philosophies] records that they live a thousand years). The motif is often paired with other auspicious symbols\u00a0<strong>[<\/strong><\/span><strong>Figure 8]<\/strong><span>.<\/span><\/p>\n<h5 class=\"no-indent\"><strong>Figures 9 and 10 \u2014\u00a0<em>Botan ni ch\u014d\u00a0<\/em>\u7261\u4e39\u306b\u8776 and\u00a0<em>Nami chidori<\/em>\u00a0\u6ce2\u5343\u9ce5 Motifs<\/strong><\/h5>\n<\/div>\n<figure id=\"attachment_253\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-253\" style=\"width: 175px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p14-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p14-1.jpg\" alt=\"A pink kimono with reddish-pink interior. The pattern in the lower outside corner depicts butterflies traveling toward two peonies. A white fan lays next to one of the peonies.\" class=\"wp-image-253\" width=\"175\" height=\"239\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p14-1.jpg 2903w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p14-1-219x300.jpg 219w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p14-1-768x1051.jpg 768w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p14-1-749x1024.jpg 749w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p14-1-65x89.jpg 65w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p14-1-225x308.jpg 225w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p14-1-350x479.jpg 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 175px) 100vw, 175px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-253\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><strong>Figure 9.<\/strong>\u00a0UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 14.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_254\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-254\" style=\"width: 175px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p16.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p16.jpg\" alt=\"A grayish kimono with red-orange and tan interior. The pattern in the lower outside corner depicts a wing of plovers outlining the shore of a pond.\" class=\"wp-image-254\" width=\"175\" height=\"248\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p16.jpg 2842w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p16-211x300.jpg 211w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p16-768x1090.jpg 768w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p16-722x1024.jpg 722w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p16-65x92.jpg 65w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p16-225x319.jpg 225w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p16-350x497.jpg 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 175px) 100vw, 175px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-254\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><strong>Figure 10.1.<\/strong> UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 16.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_262\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-262\" style=\"width: 175px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p32-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p32-1.jpg\" alt=\"A black kimono with red-orange and tan interior. The black background bleeds into the tangle of trees, red-and-brown foliage, water, and herons.\" class=\"wp-image-262\" width=\"175\" height=\"251\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p32-1.jpg 2802w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p32-1-210x300.jpg 210w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p32-1-768x1099.jpg 768w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p32-1-715x1024.jpg 715w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p32-1-65x93.jpg 65w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p32-1-225x322.jpg 225w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p32-1-350x501.jpg 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 175px) 100vw, 175px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-262\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><strong>Figure 10.2.<\/strong> UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 32.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div style=\"clear: both\">\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\"><em>Botan ni ch\u014d\u00a0<\/em>\u7261\u4e39\u306b\u8776 [peony and butterfly]: The peony is considered the king of flowers in China because of its rich beauty and medicinal value (the root of the plant has long been used to treat convulsions). The flower also symbolizes elegance and sophistication. The butterfly symbolizes evolution, resurrection, and longevity, thanks to the transformations that it undergoes in the course of its life cycle.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<p class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: justify\">One pattern in the book exemplifies feminine elegance with peonies, butterflies, and a folding fan (a high-class motif due to its associations with court life) on soft pink fabric\u00a0<strong>[<\/strong><strong>Figure 9]<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: justify\"><em>Nami chidori<\/em><span>\u00a0\u6ce2\u5343\u9ce5 [waves and plovers]: Birds (often plovers) soaring in formation over the waves symbolize a couple\u2019s bond to overcome obstacles in life. <\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: justify\"><span>In one pattern the beach is dotted with clams suggestive of the couple\u2019s inseparability (as each half of the bivalve has but one perfect match), making this\u00a0<\/span><em>tomesode<\/em><span>\u00a0especially suitable to be worn by a wedding guest\u00a0<strong>[<\/strong><\/span><strong>Fig. 10, left]<\/strong><span>. <\/span><span>Another incorporates the pine-bamboo-plum and the crane into its design, wishing for a marital union as hardy as the plants and as long-lived as the crane<strong>\u00a0[<\/strong><\/span><strong>Fig. 10, right]<\/strong><span>.<\/span><\/p>\n<h5 class=\"no-indent\"><strong>Figures 11 and 12\u00a0\u2014\u00a0<em>Hagi<\/em><span>\u00a0\u8429 and <em>Misu<\/em>\u00a0\u5fa1\u7c3e Motifs<\/span><\/strong><\/h5>\n<figure id=\"attachment_252\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-252\" style=\"width: 275px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p12.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p12.jpg\" alt=\"A black kimono with tan interior. the pattern in the lower corner depicts hagi, or bush clover, along a lake or pond.\" class=\"wp-image-252\" width=\"275\" height=\"388\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p12.jpg 2802w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p12-213x300.jpg 213w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p12-768x1083.jpg 768w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p12-726x1024.jpg 726w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p12-65x92.jpg 65w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p12-225x317.jpg 225w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p12-350x494.jpg 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 275px) 100vw, 275px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-252\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><strong>Figure 11<\/strong>. <em>Hagi<\/em> \u8429 Motif. Source: UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 12.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_261\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-261\" style=\"width: 275px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p30.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p30.jpg\" alt=\"A design of a yellow kimono with red-orange interior. The pattern in the lower corner depicts plums and chrysanthemums partially obscured by a haze.\" class=\"wp-image-261\" width=\"275\" height=\"385\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p30.jpg 2882w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p30-214x300.jpg 214w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p30-768x1074.jpg 768w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p30-732x1024.jpg 732w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p30-65x91.jpg 65w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p30-225x315.jpg 225w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p30-350x490.jpg 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 275px) 100vw, 275px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-261\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><strong>Figure 12<\/strong>. <em>Misu<\/em> \u5fa1\u7c3e Motif. Source: UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 30.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div style=\"clear: both\">\n<p class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: justify\"><em>Hagi<\/em><span>\u00a0\u8429 [bush clover]: The\u00a0<\/span><em>hagi<\/em><span>\u00a0is one of the autumnal flowers that appear often in classical Japanese poetry. <\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<p class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: justify\"><span>The design in the book also includes the\u00a0<\/span><em>nami chidori<\/em><span>\u00a0motif, which suggests that this\u00a0<\/span><em>tomesode<\/em><span>\u00a0would be suitable for wearing to an autumn wedding\u00a0<strong>[<\/strong><\/span><strong>Figure 11]<\/strong><span>.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: justify\"><em>Misu<\/em><span>\u00a0\u5fa1\u7c3e [royal screen]:\u00a0<\/span>The\u00a0<em>misu<\/em>\u00a0is a type of suspended blind used\u00a0for the sake of propriety at the royal court (for instance, to sequester the noblewomen, and to shield the nobles from the gaze of commoners in their employ).<\/p>\n<p class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: justify\"><span><\/span><span>Due to its associations with court life, the motif as it appears on the formal garment exudes a sense of nobility and elegance. <\/span><span>The pattern with the\u00a0<\/span><em>misu<\/em><span>\u00a0motif in the book has a design with plums and chrysanthemums partially obscured by a haze\u2014an artistic gambit frequently used in paintings in pre-modern Japan<strong>\u00a0[<\/strong><\/span><strong>Figure 12]<\/strong><span>.<\/span><\/p>\n<h5 class=\"no-indent\"><strong>Figure 13\u00a0\u2014 Seasonal Plants and Flowers Motif<\/strong><\/h5>\n<figure id=\"attachment_251\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-251\" style=\"width: 125px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p10-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p10-1.jpg\" alt=\"A design of a peach-colored kimono with pink and reddish interior. Japanese silver grass and chrysanthemums make up the pattern in the lower corner.\" class=\"wp-image-251\" width=\"125\" height=\"174\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p10-1.jpg 2892w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p10-1-215x300.jpg 215w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p10-1-768x1071.jpg 768w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p10-1-734x1024.jpg 734w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p10-1-65x91.jpg 65w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p10-1-225x314.jpg 225w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p10-1-350x488.jpg 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 125px) 100vw, 125px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-251\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 10.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_263\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-263\" style=\"width: 125px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p34.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p34.jpg\" alt=\"A design of a blue kimono with tan interior. The pattern in the lower corner depicts chrysanthemums and maple leaves.\" class=\"wp-image-263\" width=\"125\" height=\"193\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p34.jpg 2479w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p34-194x300.jpg 194w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p34-768x1187.jpg 768w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p34-663x1024.jpg 663w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p34-65x100.jpg 65w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p34-225x348.jpg 225w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p34-350x541.jpg 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 125px) 100vw, 125px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-263\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 34.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_264\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-264\" style=\"width: 125px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p36.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p36.jpg\" alt=\"A purple kimono with red-orange interior. The interior color matches some of the maple leaves depicted in the pattern in the lower corner.\" class=\"wp-image-264\" width=\"125\" height=\"191\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p36.jpg 2550w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p36-196x300.jpg 196w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p36-768x1175.jpg 768w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p36-670x1024.jpg 670w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p36-65x99.jpg 65w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p36-225x344.jpg 225w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p36-350x535.jpg 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 125px) 100vw, 125px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-264\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 36.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_255\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-255\" style=\"width: 125px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p18-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p18-1.jpg\" alt=\"A gray kimono with tan interior. The lower corner pattern depicts colored maple leaves and scattered cherry blossom petals with birds in flight.\" class=\"wp-image-255\" width=\"125\" height=\"174\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p18-1.jpg 2892w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p18-1-215x300.jpg 215w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p18-1-768x1071.jpg 768w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p18-1-734x1024.jpg 734w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p18-1-65x91.jpg 65w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p18-1-225x314.jpg 225w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p18-1-350x488.jpg 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 125px) 100vw, 125px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-255\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 18.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div style=\"clear: both\">\n<p class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: justify\"><span>Seasonal plants and flowers: An assemblage of plants and flowers can evoke a particular season. For example, the book includes a design with an autumn theme featuring Japanese silver grass and chrysanthemums (Page 10). Chrysanthemums and maple leaves are both evocative of autumn (Page 34; Page 36). Other designs fit multiple seasons. The combination of colored maple leaves and scattered cherry blossom petals with birds might be appropriate for attendees of autumn or spring weddings (Page 18). <\/span><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_250\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-250\" style=\"width: 209px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p8.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p8-209x300.jpg\" alt=\"This design depicts a beige kimono with a series of painted fans in the bottom corner.\" class=\"wp-image-250 size-medium\" width=\"209\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p8-209x300.jpg 209w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p8-768x1101.jpg 768w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p8-714x1024.jpg 714w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p8-65x93.jpg 65w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p8-225x323.jpg 225w, https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/445\/2018\/06\/p8-350x502.jpg 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 209px) 100vw, 209px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-250\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><strong>Figure 14<\/strong>. Several motifs with Mt. Fuji. Source: UBC Library, RBSC. Asian_Rare_06_no_L01_019_L. Page 8.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: justify\"><span>The combination of flowers from early summer (sweet flag) and autumn (bellflower, bush clover, Japanese silver grass, chrysanthemums) makes this design suitable for spring or autumn (Page 22). The sense and sensibility of seasonal motifs has always been very important in Japanese culture. It is considered fashionable to wear a kimono with botanical motifs marking the coming season, while it is seen as uncouth to wear a kimono with seasonal patterns after that season has passed.<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<p class=\"no-indent\">The most inclusive pattern in the book is the one with many of the aforementioned motifs alongside Mount Fuji\u00a0<strong>[<\/strong><strong>Figure 14]<\/strong><span>.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"no-indent\"><strong>Taste<span>\u00a0<\/span><\/strong><strong>t<\/strong><strong>hrough Design<\/strong><\/p>\n<p class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: justify\">Clothes communicate personality. Discussion of kimono fashion often centers on casual kimonos, which ostensibly afford more freedom of expression. However, even within the limited realm of<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>tomesode<\/em>s (where formal dress codes may restrict one\u2019s style), there is room for personal choice. All<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>tomesode<\/em>s are generically alike (in their basic shape, their modest pattern placement); therefore, it is through the selection of colors and symbols that a woman reveals her taste. For example, this book includes several patterns with the same auspicious motifs such as pines and cranes, but arrayed in different designs.<\/p>\n<p class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: justify\">Likewise, contained in the book are several different patterns with similar seasonal botanical motifs. The variety of patterns attests to the varied tastes of prospective wearers. Auspicious motifs would communicate a wearer\u2019s good wishes to onlookers, and seasonally-appropriate motifs would please them as well. Yet at the same time the ways in which the motifs are arranged in the design bespeak the wearer\u2019s taste in fashion. A kimono wearer would enjoy going through this kind of book, pondering which motifs might suit her style and how she might arrange them to create a look that would best represent her personhood.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h5 class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: center\"><strong>Further Reading<\/strong><\/h5>\n<p class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: justify\">Boettcher, Cheryl. 1987. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ideals.illinois.edu\/handle\/2142\/3946\">\u201cThe Kimono Imagined.\u201d<\/a><span>\u00a0<\/span><em>Occasional Papers<\/em><span>\u00a0<\/span>(University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign. Graduate School of Library Science), no. 180.<\/p>\n<p class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: justify\">Maruyama, Nobuhiko \u4e38\u5c71\u4f38\u5f66. 2008.<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>Edo m\u014ddo no tanj\u014d<\/em>:<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>mon\u2019y\u014d no ry\u016bk\u014d to sut\u0101 eshi<\/em><span>\u00a0<\/span>\u6c5f\u6238\u30e2\u30fc\u30c9\u306e\u8a95\u751f: \u6587\u69d8\u306e\u6d41\u884c\u3068\u30b9\u30bf\u30fc\u7d75\u5e2b [The birth of Edo fashion: pattern trends and celebrity designers]. To\u0304kyo\u0304: Kadokawa Gakugei Shuppan.<\/p>\n<p class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: justify\">Mostow, Joshua S. 1996.<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>Pictures of the Heart:<span>\u00a0<\/span><\/em><em>T<\/em><em>he<span>\u00a0<\/span><\/em>Hyakunin Isshu<em><span>\u00a0<\/span>in Word and Image<\/em>. Honolulu: University of Hawai\u02bbi Press.<\/p>\n<p class=\"no-indent\">Nagasaki, Iwao \u9577\u5d0e\u5dcc. 2002. <em>Kosode kara kimono e<\/em> \u5c0f\u8896\u304b\u3089\u304d\u3082\u306e\u3078 [From kosode to kimono]. <em>Nihon no bijutsu<\/em> \u65e5\u672c\u306e\u7f8e\u8853 [The art of Japan] no. 435.<\/p>\n<p class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: justify\">Siffert, Betty Y. 1992. \u201c<em>Hinagata Bon<\/em>: The Art Institute of Chicago Collection of Kimono Pattern Books.\u201d<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>Art Institute of Chicago Museum Studies<\/em>, vol. 18, no. 1: 86\u201394, 103.\u00a0 (Since the publication of this article, most of the pattern books discussed within have been transferred from the Institute\u2019s Ryerson and Burnham Libraries to the Asian Department of the adjacent museum.)<\/p>\n<p class=\"no-indent\" style=\"text-align: justify\">Yokoya, Kenichir\u014d. 2008. \u201cKimono Zuanch\u014d in Kyoto.\u201d Translated by Maya Hara. In<span>\u00a0<\/span><em>Zuanch<\/em><em>\u014d in Kyoto: Textile Design Books for the Kimono Trade<\/em>, edited by Becky Fischbach, 5\u201332. Stanford: Stanford University Libraries.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h3 style=\"text-align: center\"><strong>Acknowledgements<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">The author would like to thank Mizuho Kamo and Natsuko Takasu for their assistance in dating the item and in clarifying certain historical aspects of kimono pattern books.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":238,"menu_order":12,"template":"","meta":{"pb_show_title":"","pb_short_title":"","pb_subtitle":"","pb_authors":[],"pb_section_license":""},"chapter-type":[],"contributor":[],"license":[],"class_list":["post-228","chapter","type-chapter","status-publish","hentry"],"part":3,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-json\/pressbooks\/v2\/chapters\/228","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-json\/pressbooks\/v2\/chapters"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/chapter"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/238"}],"version-history":[{"count":25,"href":"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-json\/pressbooks\/v2\/chapters\/228\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1271,"href":"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-json\/pressbooks\/v2\/chapters\/228\/revisions\/1271"}],"part":[{"href":"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-json\/pressbooks\/v2\/parts\/3"}],"metadata":[{"href":"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-json\/pressbooks\/v2\/chapters\/228\/metadata\/"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=228"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"chapter-type","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-json\/pressbooks\/v2\/chapter-type?post=228"},{"taxonomy":"contributor","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/contributor?post=228"},{"taxonomy":"license","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/meijiat150\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/license?post=228"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}