{"id":58,"date":"2019-01-10T00:34:11","date_gmt":"2019-01-10T05:34:11","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/mste5120physicalscience\/?post_type=back-matter&#038;p=58"},"modified":"2019-01-10T00:35:04","modified_gmt":"2019-01-10T05:35:04","slug":"tie-dye-instructions","status":"publish","type":"back-matter","link":"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/mste5120physicalscience\/back-matter\/tie-dye-instructions\/","title":{"raw":"Appendix T for Tie dye instructions","rendered":"Appendix T for Tie dye instructions"},"content":{"raw":"<strong>Tie-dyeing resources<\/strong>\r\n\r\nHere is a list of my favourite resources for this delightful craft where science and art meet.\r\n\r\nIf you are thinking of trying this, remember that you <strong>must<\/strong> pre wash your fabric or t-shirt.\u00a0 \u00a0The hotter the water the better, and a touch of bleach or non-chlorine bleach helps a lot.\r\n\r\nBetter yet, use Synthrapol Soap a non-ionic soap first and then again after dyeing. Use only 20 ml or one fluid ounce per large load, and use hot water.\r\n\r\n<strong>Maiwa - Vancouver<\/strong>\r\n\r\nMaiwa is a local company with its main store on Granville Island in Vancouver.\u00a0 You can also shop there on line.\u00a0 Great source of gifts, dyeing supplies and even courses on how to do a variety of crafts.\r\n\r\n<a href=\"http:\/\/www.maiwa.com\/\">http:\/\/www.maiwa.com\/<\/a>\r\n\r\nMaiwa has a variety of instructions on the many different type of techniques.\u00a0 They also have podcasts.\r\n\r\n<a href=\"http:\/\/www.maiwa.com\/stores\/supply\/instructions.html\">http:\/\/www.maiwa.com\/stores\/supply\/instructions.html<\/a>\r\n\r\nThe type of dye we used in our workshop, and the one I recommend, is called Procion MX dye.\r\n\r\n<a href=\"http:\/\/www.maiwa.com\/pdf\/procion_mx.pdf\">http:\/\/www.maiwa.com\/pdf\/procion_mx.pdf<\/a>\r\n\r\nMaiwa\u2019s instruction on so-called \u201cnatural\u201d dyeing is also very good.\u00a0 Be careful \u2013 \u201cnatural\u201d dyes can be as corrosive to our lungs and skin as \u201cartificial\u201d dyes.\r\n\r\n<a href=\"http:\/\/www.maiwa.com\/pdf\/natural_dyeing.pdf\">http:\/\/www.maiwa.com\/pdf\/natural_dyeing.pdf<\/a>\r\n\r\n<strong>\u00a0<\/strong>\r\n\r\n<strong>Blim Artist Studio \u2013 Vancouver<\/strong>\r\n\r\nThis studio is located on Main Street in the China Town district.\u00a0 They offer a number of workshops on tie-dyeing, button making, silk screening, etc.\u00a0 It is where I learned how to tie-dye. You can purchase supplies there.\r\n\r\n<a href=\"http:\/\/blim.ca\/\">http:\/\/blim.ca\/<\/a>\r\n\r\n<strong>Paula Burch<\/strong>\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Another great resource is Paula Burch\r\n\r\n<a href=\"http:\/\/www.pburch.net\/\">http:\/\/www.pburch.net\/<\/a>\r\n\r\nHere are her instructions on how to dye using Procion MX dyes\r\n\r\n<a href=\"http:\/\/www.pburch.net\/dyeing\/howtodye.shtml\">http:\/\/www.pburch.net\/dyeing\/howtodye.shtml<\/a>\r\n\r\nHer instructions on how to tie-dye are the best I have found.\u00a0 As she says \u201cThe whole point of tie dyeing is to prevent the dye from reaching the fabric evenly. Any place that the dye can't reach will stay white, or a lighter color, of course. You can accomplish this by folding the fabric, tying it with string, using rubber bands, etc.\u201d Nice YouTube video as well.\r\n\r\n<a href=\"http:\/\/www.pburch.net\/dyeing\/howtotiedye.shtml\">http:\/\/www.pburch.net\/dyeing\/howtotiedye.shtml<\/a>\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\n<strong>Tie-dye Wiki <\/strong>\r\n\r\nFor even more information\r\n\r\n<a href=\"http:\/\/tie-dyewiki.com\/wikinew\/index.php?title=Main_Page\">http:\/\/tie-dyewiki.com\/wikinew\/index.php?title=Main_Page<\/a>\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\n<strong>Colour combinations from Paula Burtch<\/strong>\r\n\r\nA good basic rule is to apply two colors next to each other only if they appear next to each other in the following short list:\r\n\r\nfuchsia-yellow-turquoise-purple-fuchsia\r\n\r\nFor a more detailed color scheme, choose adjacent colors from the following expanded list:\r\n\r\nfuchsia-red-orange. -yellow-green-turquoise-blue-purple-fuchsia\r\n\r\nIt really does help to place fuchsia between red and purple.\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\nRainbow colours ROYGBIV\u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 red-orange-yellow-green-blue-violet\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\n<strong>Some of my favourite YouTube videos on this subject<\/strong>\r\n\r\nHow to tie-dye a spiral\r\n\r\nhttps:\/\/youtu.be\/2PJnM6MK30U\r\n\r\nOr\r\n\r\nhttps:\/\/youtu.be\/U5HgEHv4HmY\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\nHow to tie-dye a spider pattern\r\n\r\nhttps:\/\/youtu.be\/8atkGXTusGc\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\nHow to tie-dye a heart\r\n\r\nhttps:\/\/youtu.be\/HoppTRhEJYQ\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\nJennifer\u2019s Summary of Instructions from Maiwa and Paula Burtch\u2019s tie-dye\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\n<strong>Materials<\/strong>\r\n\r\n1) Pre-wash your fabric.\u00a0 If you can, wash it in very hot water and detergent, which good, or Synthrapol Soap, which is the best.\u00a0 If dyeing cotton, add a little extra soda ash or washing soda if you have it in your pre-wash.\r\n\r\n2) Tie up your fabric.\r\n\r\n3) Mordant \u2013 either Sodium Carbonate or Alum for at least 15 minutes\r\n\r\nOne cup of soda ash per gallon of water.\u00a0 Soak for at least 15 minutes.\r\n\r\n4) Dye \u2013 have fun\r\n\r\n1 teaspoon of urea per cup of water.\r\n\r\nProxion \u2013 4 teaspoons of dye in one cup.\r\n\r\nSodium alginate thickener is optional, but useful in particular when doing socks if you do not want the colours to run together.\r\n\r\n5) Wait \u2013 put in plastic bags and wait for 24 hours or so,\r\n\r\n6) Wash with Synthrapol soap.\u00a0 Rinsing first is a good idea, but not necessary.\u00a0 Wash first in cold water then twice in hot water, using Synthrapol each time.\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\n<strong>Background information<\/strong>\r\n\r\nNote:\u00a0\u00a0 Alginate tends to clump horribly when water is added. I've had good experiences by adding the alginate to cool water gradually, while whisking constantly with a small stainless steel whisk.\r\n\r\nIf that doesn't work for you, here are two different answers to the problem. One is to mix the alginate the day before use, using a kitchen blender.\r\n\r\nThe other answer to the problem of dissolving alginate is to mix the alginate with either alcohol or corn oil before adding the water, so that the particles will be separate and not stick together when water hits them. An added advantage to the use of alcohol or vegetable oil is that the solutions are said to stay good much longer than those prepared with water alone.\r\n\r\nThe alcohol you use to mix your alginate with before adding water can be denatured alcohol, also known as methylated spirits, or it can be isopropyl alcohol, also known as rubbing alcohol. Corn oil has also been used successfully for this purpose; any refined, tasteless vegetable oil should work as well. The goal is just to separate the particles of the alginate before adding any water.\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\n<strong>Synthrapol soap<\/strong>\r\n\r\nSynthrapol soap: The special thing about Synthrapol is that it is supposed to be exceptionally good at removing Procion dyes from fabric. Many dyers believe that Synthrapol is better than other detergents at keeping dye from coming off a dark section of fabric and landing onto a light section of fabric - having a medium pH, unlike the high pH of the dye bath, keeps the dye from binding to the cellulose fiber in the wrong place. However, this claim has been disputed and appears to be more tradition than fact. A far more effective way to prevent back-staining of fabric with fiber reactive dye is to allow excess time for the dye to react, so that no un-reacted dye remains when you start washing out.\r\n\r\nAnother special thing about Synthrapol is its neutral pH. The neutral pH does not encourage further reaction of active fiber reactive dyes, and it is much kinder than regular laundry soap to protein fibers such as silk or wool. Ordinary laundry detergents typically have a high pH, often from large amounts of soda ash in the formula, which aids in ordinary laundering of cellulose fibers such as cotton but which can damage silk or wool.\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\n<a href=\"http:\/\/www.bestdye.com\/health-safety.php\">http:\/\/www.bestdye.com\/health-safety.php<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0 for Health and Safety tips.\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\n<strong>MSTE5120\u00a0Tie dye instructions<\/strong>\r\n\r\nFirst think about what you want to do.\r\n\r\n1) Pattern\r\n<ul>\r\n \t<li>\u00d8 horizontal stripes?<\/li>\r\n \t<li>\u00d8 vertical stripes?<\/li>\r\n \t<li>\u00d8 Spiral? (Please note that a true spiral is difficult in the thick lab coat fabric, you are more likely to get more of a starburst of coloured lines radiating outwards)<\/li>\r\n \t<li>\u00d8 Round circles of white?<\/li>\r\n \t<li>\u00d8 Random spots of colour?<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\n2) Colour\r\n\r\nDo you want one colour or two colours to pre-dominate?\r\n\r\nIf so, which ones?\r\n\r\n<strong>Colour combinations from Paula Burtch<\/strong>\r\n\r\nA good basic rule is to apply two colors next to each other only if they appear next to each other in the following short list:\r\n\r\nfuchsia-yellow-turquoise-purple-fuchsia\r\n\r\nFor a more detailed color scheme, choose adjacent colors from the following expanded list:\r\n\r\nfuchsia-red-orange -yellow-green-turquoise-blue-purple-fuchsia\r\n\r\nIt really does help to place fuchsia between red and purple.\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\nRainbow colours ROYGBV\u00a0\u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 red-orange-yellow-green-blue-violet\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\nThen get ready to tie-dye\r\n\r\n1) Start to tie your cloth.\u00a0 Tie as tight as you can. Where there is string \u2013 where it is tied - that will prevent the dye from attaching to the cloth, so it will still be white there.\r\n\r\n2) USE GLOVES.\u00a0 You must mordant.\u00a0 Soak your tie-dye in the mixture of soda ash and water.\r\n\r\n3) Dye \u2013 have fun\r\n\r\n4) Wait \u2013 put in plastic bags and wait for 24 hours or so, before washing.\r\n\r\n&nbsp;\r\n\r\nWhy are you doing tie-dye in MSTE5120?\u00a0 The history of pigments in art and cloth can be thought of as the history of chemistry and technology.","rendered":"<p><strong>Tie-dyeing resources<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Here is a list of my favourite resources for this delightful craft where science and art meet.<\/p>\n<p>If you are thinking of trying this, remember that you <strong>must<\/strong> pre wash your fabric or t-shirt.\u00a0 \u00a0The hotter the water the better, and a touch of bleach or non-chlorine bleach helps a lot.<\/p>\n<p>Better yet, use Synthrapol Soap a non-ionic soap first and then again after dyeing. Use only 20 ml or one fluid ounce per large load, and use hot water.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Maiwa &#8211; Vancouver<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Maiwa is a local company with its main store on Granville Island in Vancouver.\u00a0 You can also shop there on line.\u00a0 Great source of gifts, dyeing supplies and even courses on how to do a variety of crafts.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.maiwa.com\/\">http:\/\/www.maiwa.com\/<\/a><\/p>\n<p>Maiwa has a variety of instructions on the many different type of techniques.\u00a0 They also have podcasts.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.maiwa.com\/stores\/supply\/instructions.html\">http:\/\/www.maiwa.com\/stores\/supply\/instructions.html<\/a><\/p>\n<p>The type of dye we used in our workshop, and the one I recommend, is called Procion MX dye.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.maiwa.com\/pdf\/procion_mx.pdf\">http:\/\/www.maiwa.com\/pdf\/procion_mx.pdf<\/a><\/p>\n<p>Maiwa\u2019s instruction on so-called \u201cnatural\u201d dyeing is also very good.\u00a0 Be careful \u2013 \u201cnatural\u201d dyes can be as corrosive to our lungs and skin as \u201cartificial\u201d dyes.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.maiwa.com\/pdf\/natural_dyeing.pdf\">http:\/\/www.maiwa.com\/pdf\/natural_dyeing.pdf<\/a><\/p>\n<p><strong>\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>Blim Artist Studio \u2013 Vancouver<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>This studio is located on Main Street in the China Town district.\u00a0 They offer a number of workshops on tie-dyeing, button making, silk screening, etc.\u00a0 It is where I learned how to tie-dye. You can purchase supplies there.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/blim.ca\/\">http:\/\/blim.ca\/<\/a><\/p>\n<p><strong>Paula Burch<\/strong>\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Another great resource is Paula Burch<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.pburch.net\/\">http:\/\/www.pburch.net\/<\/a><\/p>\n<p>Here are her instructions on how to dye using Procion MX dyes<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.pburch.net\/dyeing\/howtodye.shtml\">http:\/\/www.pburch.net\/dyeing\/howtodye.shtml<\/a><\/p>\n<p>Her instructions on how to tie-dye are the best I have found.\u00a0 As she says \u201cThe whole point of tie dyeing is to prevent the dye from reaching the fabric evenly. Any place that the dye can&#8217;t reach will stay white, or a lighter color, of course. You can accomplish this by folding the fabric, tying it with string, using rubber bands, etc.\u201d Nice YouTube video as well.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.pburch.net\/dyeing\/howtotiedye.shtml\">http:\/\/www.pburch.net\/dyeing\/howtotiedye.shtml<\/a><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>Tie-dye Wiki <\/strong><\/p>\n<p>For even more information<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/tie-dyewiki.com\/wikinew\/index.php?title=Main_Page\">http:\/\/tie-dyewiki.com\/wikinew\/index.php?title=Main_Page<\/a><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>Colour combinations from Paula Burtch<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>A good basic rule is to apply two colors next to each other only if they appear next to each other in the following short list:<\/p>\n<p>fuchsia-yellow-turquoise-purple-fuchsia<\/p>\n<p>For a more detailed color scheme, choose adjacent colors from the following expanded list:<\/p>\n<p>fuchsia-red-orange. -yellow-green-turquoise-blue-purple-fuchsia<\/p>\n<p>It really does help to place fuchsia between red and purple.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Rainbow colours ROYGBIV\u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 red-orange-yellow-green-blue-violet<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>Some of my favourite YouTube videos on this subject<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>How to tie-dye a spiral<\/p>\n<p>https:\/\/youtu.be\/2PJnM6MK30U<\/p>\n<p>Or<\/p>\n<p><iframe loading=\"lazy\" id=\"oembed-1\" title=\"GRATEFUL TIE-DYE FACTORY spiral\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/U5HgEHv4HmY?feature=oembed&#38;rel=0\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>How to tie-dye a spider pattern<\/p>\n<p><iframe loading=\"lazy\" id=\"oembed-2\" title=\"A Beginner&#39;s Guide To THE SPIDER Tie-Dye (tie dye) Pattern\" width=\"500\" height=\"281\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/8atkGXTusGc?feature=oembed&#38;rel=0\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>How to tie-dye a heart<\/p>\n<p><iframe loading=\"lazy\" id=\"oembed-3\" title=\"How to Tie Dye Heart\" width=\"500\" height=\"281\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/HoppTRhEJYQ?feature=oembed&#38;rel=0\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Jennifer\u2019s Summary of Instructions from Maiwa and Paula Burtch\u2019s tie-dye<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>Materials<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>1) Pre-wash your fabric.\u00a0 If you can, wash it in very hot water and detergent, which good, or Synthrapol Soap, which is the best.\u00a0 If dyeing cotton, add a little extra soda ash or washing soda if you have it in your pre-wash.<\/p>\n<p>2) Tie up your fabric.<\/p>\n<p>3) Mordant \u2013 either Sodium Carbonate or Alum for at least 15 minutes<\/p>\n<p>One cup of soda ash per gallon of water.\u00a0 Soak for at least 15 minutes.<\/p>\n<p>4) Dye \u2013 have fun<\/p>\n<p>1 teaspoon of urea per cup of water.<\/p>\n<p>Proxion \u2013 4 teaspoons of dye in one cup.<\/p>\n<p>Sodium alginate thickener is optional, but useful in particular when doing socks if you do not want the colours to run together.<\/p>\n<p>5) Wait \u2013 put in plastic bags and wait for 24 hours or so,<\/p>\n<p>6) Wash with Synthrapol soap.\u00a0 Rinsing first is a good idea, but not necessary.\u00a0 Wash first in cold water then twice in hot water, using Synthrapol each time.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>Background information<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Note:\u00a0\u00a0 Alginate tends to clump horribly when water is added. I&#8217;ve had good experiences by adding the alginate to cool water gradually, while whisking constantly with a small stainless steel whisk.<\/p>\n<p>If that doesn&#8217;t work for you, here are two different answers to the problem. One is to mix the alginate the day before use, using a kitchen blender.<\/p>\n<p>The other answer to the problem of dissolving alginate is to mix the alginate with either alcohol or corn oil before adding the water, so that the particles will be separate and not stick together when water hits them. An added advantage to the use of alcohol or vegetable oil is that the solutions are said to stay good much longer than those prepared with water alone.<\/p>\n<p>The alcohol you use to mix your alginate with before adding water can be denatured alcohol, also known as methylated spirits, or it can be isopropyl alcohol, also known as rubbing alcohol. Corn oil has also been used successfully for this purpose; any refined, tasteless vegetable oil should work as well. The goal is just to separate the particles of the alginate before adding any water.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>Synthrapol soap<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Synthrapol soap: The special thing about Synthrapol is that it is supposed to be exceptionally good at removing Procion dyes from fabric. Many dyers believe that Synthrapol is better than other detergents at keeping dye from coming off a dark section of fabric and landing onto a light section of fabric &#8211; having a medium pH, unlike the high pH of the dye bath, keeps the dye from binding to the cellulose fiber in the wrong place. However, this claim has been disputed and appears to be more tradition than fact. A far more effective way to prevent back-staining of fabric with fiber reactive dye is to allow excess time for the dye to react, so that no un-reacted dye remains when you start washing out.<\/p>\n<p>Another special thing about Synthrapol is its neutral pH. The neutral pH does not encourage further reaction of active fiber reactive dyes, and it is much kinder than regular laundry soap to protein fibers such as silk or wool. Ordinary laundry detergents typically have a high pH, often from large amounts of soda ash in the formula, which aids in ordinary laundering of cellulose fibers such as cotton but which can damage silk or wool.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.bestdye.com\/health-safety.php\">http:\/\/www.bestdye.com\/health-safety.php<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0 for Health and Safety tips.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>MSTE5120\u00a0Tie dye instructions<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>First think about what you want to do.<\/p>\n<p>1) Pattern<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>\u00d8 horizontal stripes?<\/li>\n<li>\u00d8 vertical stripes?<\/li>\n<li>\u00d8 Spiral? (Please note that a true spiral is difficult in the thick lab coat fabric, you are more likely to get more of a starburst of coloured lines radiating outwards)<\/li>\n<li>\u00d8 Round circles of white?<\/li>\n<li>\u00d8 Random spots of colour?<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>2) Colour<\/p>\n<p>Do you want one colour or two colours to pre-dominate?<\/p>\n<p>If so, which ones?<\/p>\n<p><strong>Colour combinations from Paula Burtch<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>A good basic rule is to apply two colors next to each other only if they appear next to each other in the following short list:<\/p>\n<p>fuchsia-yellow-turquoise-purple-fuchsia<\/p>\n<p>For a more detailed color scheme, choose adjacent colors from the following expanded list:<\/p>\n<p>fuchsia-red-orange -yellow-green-turquoise-blue-purple-fuchsia<\/p>\n<p>It really does help to place fuchsia between red and purple.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Rainbow colours ROYGBV\u00a0\u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 red-orange-yellow-green-blue-violet<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Then get ready to tie-dye<\/p>\n<p>1) Start to tie your cloth.\u00a0 Tie as tight as you can. Where there is string \u2013 where it is tied &#8211; that will prevent the dye from attaching to the cloth, so it will still be white there.<\/p>\n<p>2) USE GLOVES.\u00a0 You must mordant.\u00a0 Soak your tie-dye in the mixture of soda ash and water.<\/p>\n<p>3) Dye \u2013 have fun<\/p>\n<p>4) Wait \u2013 put in plastic bags and wait for 24 hours or so, before washing.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Why are you doing tie-dye in MSTE5120?\u00a0 The history of pigments in art and cloth can be thought of as the history of chemistry and technology.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":9,"menu_order":2,"template":"","meta":{"pb_show_title":"on","pb_short_title":"","pb_subtitle":"","pb_authors":[],"pb_section_license":""},"back-matter-type":[],"contributor":[],"license":[],"class_list":["post-58","back-matter","type-back-matter","status-publish","hentry"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/mste5120physicalscience\/wp-json\/pressbooks\/v2\/back-matter\/58","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/mste5120physicalscience\/wp-json\/pressbooks\/v2\/back-matter"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/mste5120physicalscience\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/back-matter"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/mste5120physicalscience\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/9"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/mste5120physicalscience\/wp-json\/pressbooks\/v2\/back-matter\/58\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":60,"href":"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/mste5120physicalscience\/wp-json\/pressbooks\/v2\/back-matter\/58\/revisions\/60"}],"metadata":[{"href":"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/mste5120physicalscience\/wp-json\/pressbooks\/v2\/back-matter\/58\/metadata\/"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/mste5120physicalscience\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=58"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"back-matter-type","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/mste5120physicalscience\/wp-json\/pressbooks\/v2\/back-matter-type?post=58"},{"taxonomy":"contributor","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/mste5120physicalscience\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/contributor?post=58"},{"taxonomy":"license","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/pressbooks.bccampus.ca\/mste5120physicalscience\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/license?post=58"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}